Road Race Engineering lower stress bar

Installation of the lower stress bar is quite tricky. The story the previous owner told mem as I was putting it on, explained how six people sat around arguing one night as they tried to install it, each of them having different ideas. The main problem being, it came with no instructions.

The bar goes between a gap in the underbody of the car, about 3 feet back from the front. Made of thick metal, painted grey, the stress bar weighs quite a few pounds considering it is barely two feet long. Installation of the bar required removing two nuts (one from each side) and the loosening of three other bolts, as the bar on the drivers side slides in between two pieces of the frame.

Keep in mind that these bolts you have to loosen/remove are part of the car's frame. They are VERY hard to get out. I asked for a socket wrench, and the one they handed me was barely nine inches long. I almost ripped my arm off trying to get the bolts out with that thing. When doing this mod, be sure to use the largest wrench you can find. Longer handle = more torque.

Sound vague? It sure is. I will try to get a picture or two up in the next few days, since I do not know the technical terms, assuming they exist, for the different parts of the frame.

Below is a picture of the bar, looking up at the underside of the car. I will try to get a better picture. You can see that the bar connects both sides of the undercarraige, and goes below the exhaust pipe. One of the other members of the Bay Area DSM Club who has this bar actually went off the side of the road, and across a bar of rock, and the car ended up balanced on the stress bar. If the bar had not been there, it would have destroyed everything from the downpipe to the cat-back!

After the installation of the XS Engineering turbo, I noticed that the downpipe was resting on the stress bar. This was wearing a dent in the downpipe, and making an odd rattling sound at times. To fix the problem, I wrapped the stress bar in fuel line.